We don’t have details of the product used at ANU but perhaps it’s Carter Holt Harvey’s ‘Shadowclad’, more info here: https://bretts.com.au/trade/trade-products/carter-holt-harvey-wood-products. They also have a product called Ecoply ‘Plygroove’ which you can find on the net.
Question
I have been trying in vain to source panels that will give the, for lack of a better term, Scandi raw pine interior look. I was at ANU yesterday and noted they have them in one of their new buildings, but cannot seem to find as a product to source/specify in Australia.
Question
My benchtop has osmo oil and around the sink and in areas of high use, the finish is coming away. We have reapplied the oil, we have sanded and reapplied the oil and lastly throughly cleaned (with osmo cleaner), sanded and reapplied. Although the oil appears to be absorbed, almost immediately, it returns to the previous state. Any ideas?
It’s not possible for us to have a detailed understanding of all the finishes on the market. We don’t carry out our own tests and we are not familiar with Osmo Polyx. If you are not satisfied with its performance perhaps it’s something to take up with the supplier. Osmo Polyx appears to be an oil-based finish. As a general rule we don’t recommend oils or waxes for areas where contact with water is likely. In our opinion the most satisfactory treatment for timber benchtops adjacent to sinks is polyurethane, applied to all surfaces including the edges of cutouts and the underside of the bench, ie. a complete envelope. Polyurethane forms a barrier against water and liquid spills, can be wiped clean easily, and is resistant to heat. However, if you intend to switch to polyurethane, note that any residual wax or oil may interfere with its curing, so all traces of the previous coating must be removed.
Question
We plan to lay 18mm tongue and grooved KDHW flooring fixed to 19mm Pyneboard over a new concrete slab. There will be a layer of polyethylene between the concrete and Pyneboard. Is it better to use battens, say 25mm timber battens at 450mm centres, orwould it be acceptable to just lay the Pyneboard directly over the slab?
If you put down battens there’s no need for a Pyneboard underlay, unless you want the extra solidity of the double layer. Alternatively, if you have a Pyneboard underlay laid directly onto the slab there’s no need for battens. However, two points to mention: (1) using battens provides more opportunity to level out any irregularities in the slab, and (2) an underlay of structural grade plywood provides better nail-holding if you intend nailing the flooring. For more detail on this topic refer to our Technical Design Guide #09, available for download here: https://www.woodsolutions.com.au/publications.
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